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The Azores are still a relatively unknown group of islands, owned by Portugal. Located in the mid-Atlantic Ocean, these volcanic islands offer stunning viewpoints, excellent hiking, and a pleasant, temperate climate. A trip to the Azores has been on our short list, ever since we first saw pictures from the Vista do Rei, a viewpoint overlooking two volcanic lakes. When Delta opened a direct route from New York (JFK) to Ponta Delgada (PDL), the Azores’ main airport, we jumped at the opportunity. Come along as we spend four days on Sao Miguel Island, and learn how you can do the same, using miles and points…
Getting There
In early 2018, Delta announced a new direct flight between JFK and PDL. The cash price for these flights ranges from around $625 to just over $1000, round-trip. We took advantage of a limited sale price, when the tickets first became available. I used points from the Merrill Edge card, formerly issued by Bank of America, to book two round trip fares. If you have points from this card, the redemption sweet spot is at exactly $500 for 25,000 points. Our flights were $499.81 each, allowing us to maximize the points for this booking.
Since the Merrill Edge card is no longer available for new applicants, you can use other options to book this route. You can find additional information for any of the credit card products mentioned below from our main menu, under Top Offers.
Delta Skymiles – 30,000 to 55,000, depending on dates
- Amex Delta Credit Cards
- Amex Membership Rewards Credit Cards – Transfer to Delta
Capital One Venture – 50,000 points = $500 toward travel
Barclay Arrival+ 60,000 points = $600 toward travel
Where to Stay
If you plan to explore the whole island, which I definitely recommend, you should plan to stay in the main city of Ponta Delgada. This is a great base, to explore both sides of the island, due to its central location. You have a couple options for accommodation:
AirBNB
We chose to stay at an AirBNB in the Sao Roque neighborhood of Ponta Delgada. We booked an entire apartment, so we wouldn’t have to share the space with anybody. The place was great, with two bedrooms, a living room, a full kitchen, a large bathroom, and laundry. We even had a back patio, with a partial ocean view, and a private parking spot outside the door. The location in Sao Roque is perfect, because you can walk to some great restaurants and have easy access to the highway.
The best part was our host, Fleive! He is an AirBNB superhost for good reason. He is extremely friendly, full of great local tips, and he even brought us delicious baked goods when we checked in early. To top it off, he drove us to the airport in his own car after we returned from Santa Maria Island… what a guy!! He asked me to add a link to his YouTube channel. If this is your first AirBNB stay, be sure to sign up with our link to save $40 on your first stay!
Azor Hotel – 25,000 Marriott Points/night
A few friends of ours have stayed at the Azor Hotel and spoken highly of it. At 25,000 Marriott points (approx 8,333 former SPG points), this is a pretty solid option. Marriott and SPG credit cards offer welcome bonuses ranging from 75,000 to 125,000 points. See our Top Offers > Credit Cards menu for more information on these and other hotel credit cards.
Four Day Guide
To explore the whole island, you must rent a car. Isla Verde is generally the cheapest option, but our experience was NOT good. If another company offers a slightly higher price, I recommend going with them. You will save significant money if you can drive a manual transmission. Automatics are more expensive and less available.
Take a look at the weather forecast and plan your days accordingly. “Day 3” below is best for any day with fog/rain. Hot springs are more pleasant when it is cooler, and viewpoints are no good if you can’t see anything through the clouds.
Day 1 – Central and Tea Plantation
If you’re staying at Fleive’s AirBNB (see above), you should reach out in advance to ask about checking in early. He allowed us to check in when we arrived at 8am, so we could rest and recharge after the overnight flight. If your accommodation does not allow early check in, you will just have to hit the ground running.
Our day started around 1pm, once we had a nice, long nap. We hopped in the car and drove to the north coast.
View of the North Coast
Praia Moinhos Beach Bar – Lunch
The first priority was to get something in our bellies. When we reached the north coast, we drove into the town of Moinhos. There, we found a small beach cafe on a popular black sand beach. Grab the local beer, Especial, and a cheeseburger. I swear, this was one of the BEST burgers I’ve eaten in my entire life! Eat outside, along the black sand beach, and enjoy the excellent surroundings.
Gorreana Tea Plantation
A bit farther east, along the north coast, you will find the Gorreana Tea Plantation, Europe’s only active tea plantation. Here, you can take a tour, taste free samples of the locally-grown tea, and wander in the picturesque tea fields.
Salto do Cabrito
Turning back toward Ponta Delgada, along a central road, you should look for signs to the Salto do Cabrito waterfall. A left turn off the paved road will take you down a gravel/dirt road. Drive past the parked cars at the top of the hill and down to a secondary parking area. (We parked at the top and regretted it, because the walk down/up is steep.) A short walk from here, past the old power station, will bring you to the base of Salto do Cabrito. Hop in and swim around a bit. The water is cool and refreshing.
Caldiera Velha
Head back to the paved road and continue toward Ponta. You will come to a sharp curve in the road with parking on either side and signs for Caldiera Velha. Pay the 8eu entry fee (4eu if you’re not getting in the warm springs), and head down the path to the natural hot springs. The series of pools here is fed by a volcanic hot spring that is so hot the water boils at the very top. You can also find a small waterfall at the back of the area.
Lagoa do Fogo
If the day is clear and the sun has not set, be sure to stop at the Lagoa do Fogo viewpoint. This will be the first of the volcanic crater lake viewpoints. The view from here is wonderful, and you can see the coastline behind the crater ridge. You may want to come back another day to hike the trail down to the lake. For now, just take in the view.
Unreal view of Lagoa do Fogo
Pico da Barrosa
Pico da Barrosa is one of the highest points on Sao Miguel Island. On a (rare) completely clear day, you can see the entire outline of the island from this point. Park and walk to the top of the hill and take in the vistas in every direction. If the clouds have descended on the hilltop, don’t worry, you can come back another day.
Looking out over Lagoa do Fogo from the summit
Looking toward the west from Pico da Barrosa
Sunset over Ponta Delgada day 1
Cais 21 – Dinner
Ponta Delgada has a few excellent options for dinner. I highly recommend making reservations at any restaurant you want to visit. Since we were staying in the Sao Roque area, we could walk to Cais 21, a fresh seafood spot. We were initially turned away, but luckly, a table opened up before we got out the door. Our waiter, and the couple at the next table, recommended the Wreckfish Stew and garlic bread. This large dish was more than enough for both of us to eat. Wash it down with a pitcher of the house specialty, passionfruit sangria.
Day 2 – West Side and Sete Cidades
Make sure you have a mostly clear day for this one. If it’s rainy/cloudy, swap Day 2 and Day 3.
Vista do Rei
Rise early and drive straight to this viewpoint. If you want the “Viewpoint of the King” all to yourself, you must get there before 8am. When we arrived, we were the only people there, making the unbelievable view even more special. Here, you can look out over two lakes, separated by a bridge. Lagoa Azul (blue lake) and Lagoa Verde (green lake) shine their respective colors when sunlight hits them, creating a pretty surreal scene. By 9am, multiple tour buses had descended on the area, unleashing crowds of people. Get.there.early!
Miradouro Vista do Rei
Abandoned Hotel – Caution
This abandoned hotel, atop Vista do Rei, has been a very popular attraction on Sao Miguel. The hotel was abandoned after only 18 months of operation and has fallen into ruin. The interior is covered with graffiti and the concrete skeleton is pretty eerie. Recently, an investor has taken over the facility and posted no trespassing signs. Their minimal effort has not discouraged visitors from exploring the creepy structure. We walked through, up the stairs, and onto the rooftop terrace for an awesome view. Enter at your own risk.
Miradouro del Bocas da Infierno
Drive back the way you came, until you see the turn off for Lagoa do Canario. Don’t park in the lot along the main road. Turn left and follow the dirt road until you see the parking lot for the Miradouro. From here, it is a brief, 5-minute walk to the panoramic viewpoint. This is an absolute must-do during your visit! If you’re visiting on a weekend, the gate from the main road does not open until 10am.
You will also find beautiful wildflowers along the path, particularly the hydrangeas, which cover most of the island.
Lagoa do Canario
Back up the dirt road from the viewpoint, you will find Lagoa do Canario. This lake was not particularly exciting, but worth a quick stop. Walk out to the water’s edge and skip a rock, if you like.
Lagoa do Canario
Sete Cidades
Take the winding road down from Vista do Rei to the town of Sete Cidades. After crossing the bridge in your car, you can park and walk back to get an up-close view of the lakes. You’ll notice the plant life on the bottom of Lagoa Verde, which creates the green color, when viewed from above. If you happen to visit Sete Cidades around lunch time, you should hit the buffet at the Lagoa Azul Restaurant. Two drinks and all-you-can-eat local food for only 12eu is hard to beat!
Lake view from the bridge
Thermas da Ferrera
Leaving Sete Cidades, head over to the west coast of the island. Here, you can find the thermal swimming pools in the tidal area. The water can get quite warm during low tide. We got there at the peak of high tide, so the ocean water was quite cool. Although, we did find a few warm spots, where the springs rise up into the ocean.
Grocery Store – Modelo Continente Faja de Baixo
Coming back into Ponta Delgada, you can stop in at the grocery store to pick up any essentials. We wanted to save a bit of cash (and energy) by making dinner at our AirBNB a couple nights. If you want to do the same, I recommend grabbing some salad supplies and a passionfruit vinaigrette dressing. We also picked up some Bolos Levedos, a delicious sweet bread, and a couple Piques with chocolate and coconut. (Just ask at the bakery counter… they know what’s up!)
Day 3 – Swimming Cove, Hot Springs, and Local Stew
Ideally, you should save your visit to Furnas for a rainy/foggy day. Expect at least one rainy day during your visit, since they are pretty common in the islands. This isn’t a day that features viewpoints, so no worries about low visibility. The cool/rainy conditions actually make the hot springs more luxurious.
Caloura Swimming Area
Start your drive heading east along the main road, parallel with the southern coastline. You should see signs for Aqua du Pao. Follow these signs toward the southern coast and look for the area of Caloura. This is a wealthy town, with a fantastic swimming area in a bay, shielded by cliffs. Hop in, and swim around in the crystal-clear water. Extra points if you bring goggles.
Swimming area in caloura
Lagoa do Congro
Lagoa do Congro is a very vibrant green lake, and it is well-worth a visit. You access this lake by driving down a small, dirt road and hiking about 15 minutes down a wooded trail. Your reward at the base of the trail is a serene lakeshore, surrounded by the most eye-popping shades of green. I can’t accurately describe how vivid the color is, but it’s almost so green that you can taste the color (in a good way).
Furnas Stew – Lunch
The most famous meal on Sao Miguel is the Furnas Stew, cooked in pots in the ground near Lagoa das Furnas. The most famous place to taste this stew is at Tony’s in Furnas. Unfortunately, when we arrived around 1pm, Tony’s had completely sold out of stew. They told us that we would be lucky to find any restaurant still serving stew by that time. We walked down the road to O Miroma, and boom, they had stew! Try to arrive early in the day, so you don’t miss out.
Furnas Stew
Quite a few articles say that the stew is “bland,” but I was pleasantly surprised. I found it to be quite flavorful, with a variety of meats, potatoes, and rice. Two people can easily share a single serving of the stew… the portions are huuuuge!
Poca da Dona Beija – Thermal Pools
You have two options for thermal pools in Furnas. The Terra Nostra hotel offers a single, large, spa-like pool. We opted to check out the pools at Poca da Dona Beija. The entry fee is 6eu, whether you’re getting in or not. Inside, you will find a series of 5 thermal pools, with an average temperature of 102 degrees F. Soak for a bit and relax. A couple of the pools have cool waterfall features, so grab a sweet picture as well. I hear that this place is really neat at night, if you can time your visit later.
Fumarolas da Lagoa das Furnas – Where they cook the stew
If you would like to see how/where your tasty lunch was cooked, you should visit the fumarolas along the edge of the lake. Pay a 2eu entry fee at the gate, and you can walk around the fumaroles and along the edge of the lake. While we were there, one of the restaurateurs came by to collect a pot of stew from a hole in the ground.
Day 4 – Ponta Delgada, Viewpoints, and North East
Portas da Cidade
On the final day, we ventured into downtown Ponta Delgada. Near the port, you will find the Portas da Cidade (City Gates). This is the most iconic monument in the city, featuring three arches and the coat of arms. Just behind the Portas, you will find the main church.
Mercado da Gracia
This Mercado is the central farmer’s market in Ponta. Come by for fresh fruit and cheese. We picked up a fresh-cut pineapple to go, which we ate on the road. You should also taste some fresh watermelon (if it’s in season) and Sao George Cheese.
(optional) Pico da Barrosa and Lagoa do Fogo
If the clouds blocked your view of Lagoa do Fogo or Pico da Barrosa on Day 1, now is your chance to see them again. You could also use this time to hike down to the lake.
Ribiera dos Caldieroes
Along the northeast coast, past the tea plantation, you will find an area called Ribiera dos Caldieroes. I definitely recommend a stop here for a free hike, down a short trail covered in wildflowers. You will find two waterfalls, one at the beginning and one at the end of the trail. The wild yellow flowers make this an absolutely beautiful spot.
North East Viewpoints
Leaving Ribiera, continue east along the north coast. You will encounter a few beautiful viewpoints along the drive. Stop off at each of them and get some pictures of the sheer cliffs. One viewpoint also has a meticulously-maintained garden area. Just past the town of Nordeste, you can find the path down to a cliffside lighthouse. We opted not to go down the path, because it was quite steep. After you’re finished with the viewpoints, you can return to Ponta Delgada via the northern or southern route. Either one should be about a one-hour drive.
Galego – Dinner
For a great example of locally-prepared steak, you should visit Galego. Don’t be thrown off by the meager appearance of the front room. This place has some great steaks. We tried to go for dinner on a Sunday evening, but we were turned away. The host told us they were full until Tuesday night. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time! They serve loin steaks, topped with an over easy egg and peppers, with fries… the local way.
Final Thoughts
I hope this guide to Sao Miguel Island is helpful when you plan your trip. The scenery here is unreal, and you’ll find so many thermal pools to help you relax. Be sure to try the local beer, Especial, and the delicious passionfruit soda, Kima Marajuca.
Next up, we will be flying to Santa Maria Island on SATA Air Azores. Be advised that PDL Airport is CHAOTIC! Get there a few hours ahead of your flight, because the rental car return is a mess, and the security line is extremely long. It seems like this airport has not been updated to handle the new tourist traffic to the islands.
Stay tuned for the next post, when we explore Santa Maria Island, with some SCUBA diving and a jeep safari tour.
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