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While planning our trip to Patagonia, we decided to spend a few days in Santiago, Chile. This would break the long trip into manageable segments and give us a chance to adjust to the new time zone, before venturing into the national park. We had no idea what to expect in Santiago, but we found a vibrant city with unique neighborhoods and lots of great food and drink. Come along as we explore Santiago and take a trip out to the Pacific coast.
Getting There
For the flights from Kansas City to Santiago, we used American Airlines miles to book MCI-DFW-SCL. The total cost was only 27,000 miles + $5.60 per person (one way), after the 10 percent rebate for holding the Barclays AAviator Mastercard. Flights can be booked directly on AA.com, and availability on the route is easy to find.
For more information on how we booked our whole trip to Santiago and Patagonia, see our Award Travel Booking Post.
A note about Uber – We always use Uber or Lyft to get from the airport to our accommodations. In Santiago, Uber drivers are not technically allowed to pick up or drop off at the airport. However, this does not stop them. Don’t be surprised if your driver asks you to sit in the front, or pretends to be a good friend. This is all a show, so that the authorities don’t fine them. Just go along with it. I got a solid bro-hug from our driver at the terminal drop off point. If this bothers you, feel free to pay 4x as much for a cab.
Where to Stay – Crowne Plaza Santiago
Santiago has many name-brand hotels. Many of these hotels are in the business district of Las Condes. Most points of interest, however, are located around the historic center of the city, far from Las Condes. While searching for a hotel, I used Google Maps to drop pins on the places we wanted to explore. The Crowne Plaza Santiago allowed us to easily walk to every point of interest on the map.
A night at the Crowne Plaza costs only 25,000 IHG points, which I consider to be a fantastic value. You can earn enough points for 3 nights with the Chase IHG credit card. The hotel itself is a bit dated, but the lobby, bar, and restaurant have been updated. The guest rooms are past due for a refresh, but the bed was clean and comfortable. For more information on the Crowne Plaza Santiago, see our hotel feature post (coming soon).
What to Do
Cerro San Cristobal
A trip to the top of Cerro (hill) San Cristobal is near the top of every list of must-do’s for Santiago. This list is no exception. You simply must ride the funicular (old railway elevator) to the top of the hill, for a panoramic view of the city below, and the Andes Mountains in the distance.
You will find the entrance for the funicular in an old stone building at the end of Calle Nono, the main street in the Bellavista neighborhood. I highly recommend purchasing a round trip funicular ticket, unless you’re prepared for at least an hour-long walk down.
Atop the hill, you will find some snack and trinket vendors, a small church, and a virgin Mary statue at the summit. Take some time to explore the top of the hill, and take in views from all directions. The top-down view will help orient yourself to the city.
Strawberry Walking Tours
If you’ve read any of our previous city guides, you know we are huge fans of free walking tours. These tours offer a local perspective on the city, and help us find the main tourist attractions, as well as the local treasures.
Mauricio, our Strawberry Tours guide, is a native Santiguan. He loves his city, and he showed us a lot of great stuff. The tour starts at the Universita Catolica metro station, and they offer tours in English and Spanish.
Bellavista
The Bellavista neighborhood is an eclectic mix of bars, restaurants, clubs, stores, event spaces, and street art. We ate some excellent food in this neighborhood, and we got the impression that it really lights up when the sun goes down. You will likely walk through Bellavista en route to Cerro San Cristobal. Take some time to admire the murals and enjoy the smells of all sorts of food.
Bellavista Street Art
Lastarria Neighborhood
Lastarria is like the younger, classier sibling to Bellavista. During the day, street vendors gather to sell art, jewelry, and other handcrafted goods. In the evening, you can find live music wafting through the streets, and string lights twinkling in the trees. Plan to have a nice dinner in Lastarria at one of the city’s top restaurants, Bocanariz. After dinner, head across the street for some artisan ice cream or coffee at Emporio Rosa.
Day Trip to Valparaiso & Vina del Mar
No trip to the area would be complete without a trip to the seaside towns of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. You can rent a car and take the 1.5-hour drive yourself, or you can book a day trip. We found a great tour option that was only slightly more expensive than a rental car, booked through Viator. The bus picked us up at our hotel, and drove us to the coast, stopping briefly to taste wine in the Casablanca valley.
Our tour guide, Romi, showed us the best parts of Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. We parked at the top of a hill in Valpo, near the former home of Pablo Neruda. We strolled down the hill, admiring the beautiful street art and colorful houses. From the base of the hill, we rode a funicular up to a viewpoint and looked out over the coastline.
Next, we boarded the bus and headed to Vina del Mar for lunch. Vina is a modern city, with a ritzy feel. We stopped for a couple photo ops and a walk on the beach, before heading back to Santiago. Great day!
Eat and Drink
Galindo
Check out Galindo in the Bellavista neighborhood for some of the most authentic examples of Chilean dishes. Grab some empanadas de pino to start and share a pastel de chiolo as your main dish.
Bocanariz
Located in the Lastarria Neighborhood, Bocanariz has become a VERY popular spot. If you want to enjoy a dinner here, be sure to make reservations as far in advance as possible. The menu features a wide selection of wines, offered in tasting flights. They also serve eclectic tapas with a Chilean flair, including duck confit, fried eel, salmon tartare, ceviche, veggie torellini, and flank steak.
Central Seafood Market
A visit to the Central Seafood Market is a staple of any trip to Santiago. Here, you will find fresh fish and seafood of all kinds. (Beware, the smell is quite strong!) Past the fishmonger stalls, you will find an interior atrium with a selection of seafood restaurants.
Domino
One of the highly-recommended Chilean dishes is actually a hotdog…? Swing by Domino and order a “completo” or a “completo italiano.” I love a good hotdog, and I was sad that we didn’t actually have a chance to try this one.
Buffalo Waffle
This tiny eatery on the edge of Lastarria neighborhood is packed around lunch time. You can order all sorts of meats and veggies wrapped in fluffy waffles. Our waffle even had shoestring french fries wrapped up in it.
Emporio Rosa
Listed as one of the top 25 ice cream shops in the world, Emporio Rosa does not disappoint! They have a few locations around Santiago, but the original is across from Bocanariz in the Lastarria neighborhood. This is the perfect dessert spot after dinner. Grab a Cafe Rosa and try the ice cream combo of mint-lemon + cinnamon chocolate!
Drinks
Chile has a few distinctive cocktails that you should seek out during your visit. The first two, the Pisco Sour and Piscola utilize the local favorite spirit – Pisco. You will also find many different spins on the classic Pisco Sour, using all sorts of fruits – The Rubarbo Sour was a personal favorite. Another typical Chilean cocktail is called the Terremoto (Earthquake) – Created from a mixture of orange juice, pineapple ice cream, and strong liquor, this drink lives up to the name. If you’re still thirsty, they may offer you a half-sized version, called an “aftershock.”
You also must try the local wines. Carmenere is the most famous red wine variety. Order a sample at Bocanariz and thank me later.
Final Thoughts
When we booked the trip to Patagonia, we essentially considered Santiago to be a “stop along the way.” However, after spending a couple days in the city, we came to appreciate the food, drink, and culture. Chilean people are very warm and friendly, and they made sure we had a great time in their capitol city. I hope this guide helps you plan a visit to the beautiful city of Santiago.
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