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Puerto Natales, Chile, is most commonly known as the “Gateway to Torres del Paine National Park.” This small, lakeside town in southern Chile is a necessary stop along the way, if you plan to hike the famous W-Trek in Patagonia. When we planned this portion of our trip, I imagined a sleepy, little place without much to do. Wow, was I wrong! Puerto Natales has a lot going on. The overall vibe is much like ski towns in Colorado or New Zealand. It’s definitely worth spending a couple days exploring this lively spot.
Getting There
The traditional way to reach Puerto Natales is to fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas, and then take a 155-mile bus ride to Puerto Natales. Many local bus companies operate this route and fares are cheap at $12 one-way.
Fortunately, LATAM Airlines recently opened a direct flight from Santiago (SCL) to Puerto Natales (PNT). We didn’t want to mess with the logistics of the bus, so we snagged direct flights into PNT, using our American Airlines miles. Routes within Chile get a special spot on the AA award chart and only cost 6,000 miles one-way! That’s an absolute steal for a 3+hr flight.
We accidentally booked the first flight of the 2018/2019 season from SCL to PNT. LATAM set up a ribbon cutting, complete with drinks, snacks, and sandwiches at the departure gate.
When you arrive at the tiny PNT airport, the best option to get into town is via taxi. Wave a cab down at the airport curb and expect to pay approximately $8 for the 10 minute ride. It helps to have cash on hand for the cab and for purchases in Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine. Grab cash before you depart the Santiago airport, because ATMs are hard to find in town.
Where to Stay
We originally planned to stay one night in Puerto Natales on each end of our trek through Torres del Paine. However, bad weather in the park cut our hike short by one night, giving us three total nights in the city. Fortunately, Puerto Natales has lots of options for accommodations, including AirBNB’s, hostels, and hotels. We were able to book the following hotels with Chase Ultimate Rewards points.
Hotel Vendaval
Hotel Vendaval is an impressive spot, located in the center of town. Rooms are small, but cozy, with cool decor. The on-site restaurant offers EXCELLENT seafood options, and the rooftop bar makes some tasty Pisco cocktails. Grab dinner in the restaurant, and then take in the sunset on the top floor patio. You can also plan to grab a buffet breakfast before you set off for the park, included with the stay.
Vendaval also offers bag storage in their secure basement. If you’re hiking in the park, you’ll need to leave behind any non-essentials. Simply ask them at the front desk, and they’ll hold your bag, even if you’re not coming back to stay there after the hike.
Casa de la Patagonia
We booked Casa de la Patagonia at the very last possible moment. At our final campground in the park, we purchased an hour of wifi, accessed the Chase portal on my phone, and booked this hotel. Since we booked the last room, we ended up with one of two rooms that share a bathroom at the end of the hallway. Fortunately, our “bathroom buddies” never showed up.
We caught the early bus out of the park and arrived at the hotel well before check-in. Fortunately, the lovely front desk clerk allowed us to check in early. The hotel itself is pretty basic, but we appreciated a soft, warm bed after 4 nights sleeping on the ground. The location is well-situated on a main street and easy to find. Breakfast is served each morning, and I thoroughly enjoyed the fresh scrambled eggs, made to order.
Hostel Factoria
We spent our final night in Puerto Natales at Hostel Factoria. This hotel is located close to the water, near the edge of town. We could not check in early, so we stored our bags for a while. When we got in, we found the room to be very small, but enough space for us.
The downstairs cafe was a total disappointment. Cold, rainy weather had us craving hot chocolate. Unfortunately, for $7, we got a cup of luke-warm milk with a scoop of chocolate powder sitting on the bottom. Breakfast wasn’t bad, since they made some fresh scrambled eggs. I’d honestly look elsewhere to stay. There are too many better options to send business here.
What to Do
Last Hope Distillery
This is the world’s southernmost distillery (for now, at least). You simply must stop in at this eclectic little spot for a fantastic cocktail and tour. Last Hope Distillery started when an Aussie couple couldn’t find a decent cocktail after completing the W-Trek. They did the logical thing, and opened a full-blown distillery!
We loved hanging out with the owners, learning about their process, and tasting the spirits. They specialize in gin, but they’re in the process of making other spirits as well. Enjoy a couple cocktails from their seasonal menu, and then ask for a dinner recommendation.
Holaste! Specialty Coffee
I LOVE a great cup of coffee! Rarely, do I find coffee abroad that measures up to my favorite spots at home. The owners of this tiny shop know exactly how to make a perfect cup. They have some of the best single-origin coffees from around the world, and they brew them with multiple pour-over options – Kalita, V60, Chemex, you name it. Not only do they know their coffee, but they’re super-nice. The shop owners used to work in the park, and they offered some great tips for our hike. They even remembered us when we returned after 4 days in the park.
Erratic Rock
Your one-stop shop for gear. Anything you didn’t (or couldn’t) bring on the flights – you can find it here. We stopped in for a fuel canister and chatted with the guys for a bit. They gave us some great advice, and they recommended that I bring some twine (cut a length for free in the shop). That twine turned out to be essential for the tent in high winds. Thanks Ezra!
If you time your visit right, they do workshops, and they offer free gear that people leave behind in a designated box. We dropped our half-used fuel canister back at the shop after the hike.
Wild Burgers
Wild Burgers is a beer and burger shop that doubles as the lobby for a hostel. You can customize your giant burger and grab a few local beer options. Prices are very reasonable for the quantity and quality of the food! Keep an eye out for the dog that “works” in the shop… it does a pretty cool trick.
Mesita Grande – Pizza
Right on the main street, you will find this popular pizza shop. Grab a seat at the long, common table and enjoy a fresh pie.
Cafe Artimana
This cafe came highly recommended from the good folks at Last Hope Distillery, and it did not disappoint. The menu features seafood and sandwiches, along with local beer, cocktails, and coffee. Following advice, we ordered manoso sandwiches, which were ENORMOUS… One is enough food for two people, with leftovers.
Baguales
Baguales is a local favorite restaurant and microbrewery. Our waiter brought a full sampling of their house-made beers, including a special raspberry-infused pale ale. The pulled pork sandwich and chips with guacamole were very good!
Waterfront
Take a walk down to the water’s edge while you’re in town. On a clear day, the mountains in the background create a beautiful scene. Skip a rock, walk out to the end of the dock, or play fetch with some local stray dogs. You can also find people doing skateboard tricks at the lakeside skate park.
Final Thoughts
Puerto Natales really surprised us with its lively feel and excellent options for food and drink. With plenty of places to stay, great eats, and tasty beer, coffee, cocktails, and wine, you shouldn’t be bored here. Peruse the local artisan shops, stroll the edge of the lake, and enjoy the scenery. Hopefully this guide encourages you to explore this little town, if you happen to find yourself passing through.
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